3/22 Sunday 2 hr Hike out and Walkabout Totals

We woke up at day break and had our last meal of porridge on the trail and a final couple hrs. of hiking down to the dam again arrive at the southern base of the Smokey's and closure of our Walkabout.
Our overall loop was up the AT and back the Benton MacKaye with several sojourns off the top ridge and down the sides into the foothills and then back up again. In all we felt we experienced about as much as one could survive while still remaining bonded brothers with smiles on our faces.

Totals
120.8 miles
15 miles/ day average
Consumed about 9 lbs of food each
2 mini cans fuel each
Each gained strength while loosing weight Dan 11.5lbs, Me 2lbs
Both had posture/flexibility improvement
Sold on trekking poles a must have for hiking assist both up and down w/pack

For me feet blisters on top of blisters. For Dan crotch rot

Both looking forward to our next Walkabout

Via this link you can check out our route/elevations and more on this mapping site. Note I had to force in a couple of the days (in red) as the  trials we chose were too isolated to register. As a result it cut off about 6 of our miles but close enough.

http://www.mapmyrun.com/routes/view/664797142

 

last hill to cross then down to the lake (our start/end) bittersweet

AT thru hikers Adam and "Kato" 

 

 

  

  

Great hiking partners  

 

Survival part 2

Sorry not many pics from Thurs as we had to keep moving fast to keep our chattering teeth at bay and avoid the following inevitable all consuming body hyper thermia 

The tough day was par for the course however, for what we observed in this deep forest. The largest trees we had ever seen east of the Mississippi. Massive Spruce, Fir, and Hemlock 4 to 7ft in diameter. All old growth timber apparently too deep in the mountain to cut and drag out of this difficult to reach gorge. We were walking through a land of giants at least a couple hundred yrs. old. Ever so sad however was not one of these mammoth evergreens was still alive! Every last one had recently died and all were now standing testaments to what once was throughout the Smokey's. 

Although evolution has resulted in the survival of the fittest since the beginning of time it was sad to see it happening so fast. The majority of these giants were still standing and now  covered in heavy lichen making for a sad skeletal formation. Some of  these towers of Babylon however are just now starting to crash down leaving in their wake huge swaths of destruction. We even saw one proud juvenile hemlock some 15 ft tall shooting up for the light. Sadly however it was growing straight out of the top of one of these dead giants so it will too will soon be doomed as it foundations crashes over.

There is some controversy's around the specific source responsible for this recent occurrence. Some say acid rain, others reduction in overall  air quality due to the rapid population growth south and west of the Smokey's and some claim an invasive insect species introduced from Asia. Or as is often the case I guess, a combined effect which recently lead to this  "tipping point" . 

We ultimately came to Lake Fontana which covers the base of the foothills, is several hundred feet deep, and apparently consumed whole former mountain settlements when filled. This lake like so many in this part of "progress". Harnessed to become part of the power network now in existence throughout Tennessee and NC. The system provides for flood management, hydroelectric power in the winter/spring and recreation in the summer fall when the generation of power is all switched over to coal burning plants. This vast integrated network has spurred much population growth across the region due to the highly favorable climate, and outdoor activities available. However as with all "growth and progress" there is definitely a corresponding cost to be levied. A dramatic end has occurred and as sure as the next pending storms on the horizon; these standing dead, and a whole era to soon be whipped away. A wet cold, sad day.

Land of Giants  

3/21 Saturday Day 8 our last full day 15.7 miles

Being today was back to being another bluebird day we set out to hike back out of the foothills and inward back up the mountain to close our loop for the week at Shuck stack fire tower ( the one we missed in the fog on day one).
Passed more early mountain settlement sites along and one cool historical home which had been kept up but is now falling into disrepair. This was the last piece of a boom town logging community built in 1908 and lasting until logged out 18 yrs.
Our trek back up the mountain was 2.7miles long on a remote path called Lost Cove trail. It was a MOTHER, with 11 tricky stream crossings and a 3000 ft rise in elevation. The toughest of the week, would have been impossible without trekking poles which were vital for the log/rock crossings and powering up the ever steep climb. Eventually made it to  stick high fives and on to the old fire tower for some more amazing views over the range. Had planned on stealth camping up in it but decided it was too shaky with the floor rotting out and wind shaking the whole thing around. Ended up back here at our first day mountainside camp site and the last of our dehydrated dinners. Super quiet surreal night for our last dinner meal.

Trail magic we left one of the climbing ropes we had found and used for big crossing at the campsite on departing.

Funnies:
1) We actually passed the white house 3 times as Dan had succeeded in convincing me we were on the wrong trail after we had hiked a mile UP the mountain! This led to some good banter
2) Lunch today consisted of the jar of Skippy's peanut butter Dan lugged around all week and a couple of my salmon packets. All we had and we savored it like it was our last.
3) after I led up the last third of the especially steep climb and summited with Dan behind snorting like a locomotive as we approached the top. And after we both sucked in air to speak again he goes "whew I was worried about how I was going to drag you up that section"! This from the same guy who had us pass the house 3 times back at the beginning.
 

signs of an early life in the mountains

 

The historic Calhoun House at Proctor Point. Logging town 1908 -1926   

 

Lunch today is Skippy's and Tuna 

 

 

one of 11 stream crossings going up Lost Cove Trail 

 

 

 

Couldn't have done this twice

 

Summiting the infamous Lost Cove trail and back on AT (toughest 2.7 on our loop)

 

  

Atop the Shuckshack fire tower

 

morning after last nights stealth site (closed loop to back to where it all started)

 

3/20 Friday Day 7. 17.3/miles

Woke up tat the base of the foothills all was wet but not raining. Hoped to walk/ dry everything out however as it turned out the day stayed misty but thankfully warmer so food for hiking however bad for feet. Today we are heading generally southwest across the lower foothills on the Benton MacKaye. Soon had the toe of the hills cut off by the     man made beginning source of Lake  Fontana then the trail up down and overs on each hog back because the toe of each was now in the lake
The woods fin this lower section of the forest felt much like hiking back home with  largely deciduous past many early home mountain cabin sites with only the crumbling hand laid stone chimney left and bits of mason jars, cast iron stove and such in the hovels. Tough life it undoubtedly was. We marveled and wondered out how they wood ever get in and out for even the bare essentials. No doubt many buried right here.
You could tell there must have been a mountain woman in the hollows too attempting to make it home as we saw daffodils, holly, forsythia, and Boxwood growing about. Several daffodil bunches up on the hillside up behind a former cabin location. Wondered about the people and stories we were walking over.

Trail magic  Dan returned the favor and left the tarp which someone had left for him for the next person in need.

Funnies/ interesting

Hiking for a couple days now largely alone we came across a guy headed our direction. He was carry a rod a reel which is hard to hike with, desperate to get at least a bite. Said they have been skunked for two days. Turns out he was with a group of 3 but he was way out ahead of his older brother "big amp" (he did turn out to be a big boy). First guy said to give him hell to move along when we came upon him to move along. We kept on for about 1 1/2 hrs. before coming on Big Amp and relayed to him the tail of us seeing his brother way up ahead slaying fish. Poor Big Amp took it hook line and sinker and was savoring the thought of finally eating fish tonight. Said to be sure to tell the other two lagging about 1/2 hr. behind him. One of them a first time camper.

As it turned out we saw a bunch of wild boar activity in this section. So when we came upon these two we got all riled up and informed them of the  momma hog with young we ran into between Big Amp and them which we had to fend off with our trekking poles to get by. These two moved on cautiously on high alert. Luckily we continued on in the opposite direction and didn't later run into any of these boys.

 

yet another dryout attempt

 

 wet hiking damage

 

 

 

past multiple log cabin site with only the hand laid chimney left standing. Local red clay was used for mortar

 

 

remnants of logging life in the foothills

 

 

Lake Fontana  

 

 

Lost Cove Creek Crossings 

 

 

We couldn't have done this one twice

 

 

 

 

 

  

  

  

3/19 Thursday Day 6 Survival part 1. 19.6 Miles

Having spent all  of yesterday afternoon coming down off the top our over night was spent deep in a gorge on the eastern side of the range.
Started raining in the middle of the night. Woke up to a very wet quick breakfast of oats and packed out. We set out traversing down through a long gorge alongside a rushing stream moving fast to stay warm under our rain gear. Luckily we didn't have to cross the growing stream by the time we had reached the trailhead 3.4 miles down as it had progressively gotten huge. Mercifully another breath stopping high footbridge.
It was here our large overall loop turned in a southerly direction. Over this stream to begin heading back to our original starting point at  Fontana Dam. Being we were now trekking at 90 degrees to the ranges we are saw toothing up and down the gorges. Working up a big sweat underneath our gear going up and becoming chilled going down. Rock hopping at upper crossing and traversing back down gorges we knew we were running into trouble on really long down on a remote path when the stream we were descending on got louder and louder. Sure enough when we get to the crossing point its big, fast and threatening with no means of getting over but to forge. Funny so far for the entire trek so far we had taking our hiking boots off at each crossing to avoid getting our boots wet. But at this point we were wet clear through and besides this thing was mean. So we went  in one at a time with packs totally undone, just hanging on our shoulders and tied to a rope  being feed out by the other in case of disaster. Boots actually were a must to keep foot holds. Both of us made it across to huge hiker high fives and then moving hard as were now COLD! Forced march straight down the slot we were in to god forbid yet another like forging only a bit larger for more tributary's had entered. Same deal and over, no time to celebrate as were now trucking like never before trying to build up internal heat. Blew past our next scheduled camp site and two more due to being bone cold. Finally we found a bit of a reprieve under a rock over crop and fired up our JetBoil stoves for Ramon noodles and Salmon. Both devouring it quickly parking up as the shivering set in again and pushed on.

Finally stopping at our present site a full days camp forward. Unfortunately still in the cold rain. After a quick set up we worked harder than we ever have to make fire out of saturated wood. Finally we had warmth as we then stood over it with our rain jackets opened up to bring in the heat. Couldn't see due to the smoke but a fire never felt better. By the time we turned in under still light gear we had everything dried back out to damp.

Trail magic amazingly was the trail magic presented d to Dan today. He has had big problems with staying dry in his new tent. Low and behold he finds a tarp folded up and left at this site to cover over his entire setup. This will be really huge for tonight!

 

  

3/18 Wed Day 5 up and over 15.7 miles

Huge day today up to Clingmans Dome  6643' and now well down the mountains over on the eastern side of the range headed for the Fontana river valley. Ran into a fair bit of ice and snow on the north side of the peak but got through OK with the help of the trekking poles. Saw our first through hiker on top headed for Maine. Trail name Good Night. Started in Georgia on March 1st and hopes to make Maine by end of July. A park ranger was here at the top who informed him Clingmans is exactly 210 miles from the start- 10% of the way to the end to which Goodnight cringed. He is 32 yrs. old, just left his job with Lumber Liquidators before they go under and plans to start anew on his return home to Cleveland after completing his dream goal. Dan was ready to tag along! Pretty cool to visit with. He is on Google blogger as "noise rkc". Will have to look him up
Lucked out with clear skis and breathtaking views of the top. Hiked through a couple miles of patchy snow and a fair bit of ice.
Saw some old growth timber which the loggers missed. Spell bounding to hike up on. Spruce and the largest Tulip Popular we've ever seen.
Just finished eating and both turning in dark. Hiker midnight.

Trail magic Dan offered Good Night half of an almond mounds bar he was carrying and his eyes lit up like he was being offered gold.

 

log walking over streams (works till creek gets too big)

 

 

lunch trail side Ramon noodles n tuna pack

 

 

ice cold mountain water

 

first sign of ice and snow headed to Clingmans Dome

 

  

Clingmans Dome 6643' 

 

heading up and ready to add layers

 

Top of the World east of the Mississippi  

 

  

 

monster Tulip Popular old growth timber 7' dia @ breast height

 

Dan's make shift rabbit hole with "trail magic tarp"

high and dry and away from wild boars

 

 

 

  

  

  

 

3/17 Tues Day 4. Short 10.5 miler Clingmans dome 6500 ft climb tomorrow.

I'll let the pics describe the scenery. Words fall short.

A word on gear as we are becoming much more aware of do and don't.
I started the hike with 29 lbs and Dan 32. I'm hanging in a hammock with an under/ over quilt and rain fly. He is in a single tent. We are finding the person hanging is much dryer being up off the ground. Can sit up or lay flat if in an asymmetrical  pattern. A bit of getting used to hanging on a mountain side but NO pressure points - suspended in air. Were thinking its also lighter with all involved tent wise. So far Dan has had some moisture issues due to wet conditions.
Thinking I'm a hanger from here on when light packing.
Our food is dehydrated. Typical day starts out with  oat meal w/ raisins, almonds and ends with a double serving of mountain brand chicken, beef or lasagna with fixens. Boil water on a jet boil pour in and rehydrated in 5 min. All actually really good after long day and after each we are about a 1/2 pound lighter!
We each actually also brought Ramon noodles and tuna or salmon foil packets for lunch. But we are finding we feeling better skipping this in the middle of the day and just going with nibbling on home mixed gorp through the mid day.
Huge to hiking/climbing is water. Lots of it but its also heavy. Rather than going with our pumps or water treatment tabs, this time we went with a small in-line strainer system which screws right on top of a 1 liter water bottle. This enables us to grab water quick when ever we need it. Typically, based on topo ahead we have 1 to 2 liters on us with one side clean and the other dirty  (unfiltered). Right side pocket for clean stuff, left dirty including bottle cap filter lid, etc. no cross over. Don't want to screw up here with even a drop or two or you could be down for the count. Volume at any one time is based on closely watching map to determine where next water might be in a gorge. Seems to be everywhere until your
What could I have paced more of? Duck tape and super glue. Without DT I would have been out after first day. Got some not too pretty raw feet shots. Medicating and DT to keep going. Ran out and found a "trail angel with some to share!
Dan has iron feet no issue.
He on the other hand has chaffing going on keep telling him super glue and duck tape but not taking me up yet. Just looks like he's been horse riding after a tough day.
Both of us have found the secret with jumping in the ice cold streams at days end. Puckers all right up!

Trail magic I found a wool hat laying on a path 

I've been lugging a back up charger but as it turns out the wrong tether for my droid. Ran into some spring g breakers at camp tonight with a multiple end tether- back to 100 % going to save me

Dan found a former climbing rope in the woods at the creek tonight

Interesting/Funny

We were in short sleeves today and a guy had told us we are going to need crampons up there tomorrow. We're like what?

Went to bed down in my hammock only to summersault over backwards with my feet stuck up in the air. Learned I've got to stretch it out first otherwise its like trying to lay back on a rope. Good thing I wasn't mountainside!

near Elkmont Trail head  

 

going up Little River Trail

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

little guy, on the lookout for his mother

 

3/16 Monday Day 3 13.6 miles up and down

Another awesome blue ski day. Trekking up amazing trout rich streams. Up for 2 to 3 hrs. up through a gorge traversing over in 5 to 6 cases rock hopping and our first time through in one knee deep and half way up to the thigh in the middle.  Very tricky in swift current on super slick rocks under the surface. Fall and your going down stream FAST. Both still dry, fingers crossed we stay that way.
As it turned out this was an ideal week to be here. We are just at the plant life cha he o er from winter to spring which means  we are able to see great distances through the woods where in two wks. it will become a green tunnel. Lots of trees just starting to flower maple, tulip popular, which hazel, and the forest floor coming to life. Day to day change is dramatic to see close up.
Long stretches of solitude but are running into quite a few spring breakers near trail heads. Great outdoor people. Like ma y we met these two from Huntington College on their first packing trip. Great guys but clueless in the outdoors. Helped them with tying knots and such. 52 lb. packs using moms aluminum pans with glass tops and such. Really got to hand it to them as they were in great spirits as they climbed hunched over baring massive loads. Case of the tortoise and the hare as they topically blow by a d us two old dogs continue UE steady Eddie only to have them book by again. So far the old dogs have been setup and chowing first however.

Funnies/interesting with me doctoring my feet after our long day. I asked Dan how he goes" I'm doing great except for my crotch rot!

 

our first ice water immersion  

 

 

52lb. pack w/moms pots and pans in there